Torngat Mountains Expedition 2023: Day 9
Breakfast with a Polar Bear!
We entered Nachvak Fjord around 6am this morning and while the early risers were eating breakfast, those who were still sleeping frantically jumped out of bed when an announcement that there were wildlife sightings – a seal and polar bear! We have been told that it is very rare to witness a polar bear fishing. The sky was overcast and there was some fog so it felt magical!
All before 9 am, we also had another SOI First! This is our first time anchoring at Nachvack Fjord, Torngat Mountains National Park. The mountains that surround Nachvack are the highest in Labrador and are also the most well-photographed. An important fishing spot for the Inuit of Labrador, Nachvak Fjord is divided in two arms on the western end called ‘Tallek’ and ‘Tasiuyak.’
Our morning continued as we set out on the Zodiacs and headed to shore. Despite the rain, we had a busy morning exploring. We found evidence of previous cultures and civilizations, caribou, and bears. We also explored Labrador gastronomy with SOI Team Member Maria and sampled two plants: tulligunnak (roseroot) and malitsuagak (seabeach sandwort).
Tienne led an intro session on archeology while Emma led a session on ‘life survival skills’ including making paracord bracelets. These can be used for a variety of tasks, such as repairing camping gear, making emergency tunicates, or used as fishing line. SOI Team Leader Aaron led a ‘rock walk’ up the mountain where we learned how to take some geological samples, identify some features, and collect data.
Today has been the coldest and wettest day on expedition thus far and it rained most of the morning so SOI Team Member Mary made a bonfire from driftwood for us to keep warm. Incredible to see Mary’s skills of gathering driftwood and starting a bonfire so quickly. We cooked a fish from our fishing session and all got to enjoy it.
Before heading back to the ship for lunch, we went fishing; another one of our favourite expedition activities. After lunch, we took a ship cruise through Tasiuyak where we spotted more wildlife – a caribou and another polar bear! Mid-afternoon, SOI Team Leader Emma hosted a very fun “permafrost party!” This session introduced us to all things permafrost. Emma led as we travelled to the Pleistocene epoch to simulate permafrost environments. Our samples are currently in the freezer solidifying the next step for a conversation surrounding thawing and its implications. Our experiment will continue in a few days.
In the evening we had the privilege of visiting Nachvak Village where SOI Team Members Tienne and Jenna took us through a sod house—a semi-subterranean structure—to show everyone the important features. This house had a long meandering entrance that eventually rose to two mirrored round rooms. Each had a sleeping platform along the back, and at the time of occupation would have had quliqs (soap stone oil lamps) for warmth, light, and cooking. Whale ribs and other bones would have made up the supports, and then sod would have been overlaid to protect and insulate the home. These homes could support large kin-groups or smaller families and were dotted along the cliff-side.
It’s been an incredible and busy day exploring Nachvach Fjord. From early morning wildlife sightings to more SOI Firsts, Geoff, our Expedition Team Leader summarized it best when he said during our evening debrief that “There are not enough words to describe what we have seen and experienced today. It’s a lot to process.” As the sun sets, we set sail and head to Eclipse Sound.