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Torngat Mountains Expedition 2023: Day 11

Gone Kayaking!

This morning, the fog lifted just as we came around the corner before anchoring in Ramah Bay. This was a place where Nunatsiavut Inuit gathered for summer hunting, fishing, and typically an area for spotting whales and other wildlife. It’s been six years since an SOI Expedition has visited and we had a feeling we would be making some extra special memories here. 

Ramah was a small mission run by the Moravian Church in northern Labrador from 1807 until 1821 and it was the mission farthest North. It was fully built on Ramah Chert, an uncommon semi-translucent light-grey stone with dark banding found at Ramah Bay. The chert outcrops are a narrow geological bed stretching from Saglek Fjord to Nachvak. At Ramah Bay, the highest quality stone was the most widely traded tool stone known. Ramah Bay also has around 10 sodhouses, an Inuit graffiti rock where Inuit would carve their names, and a small waterfall that flows into a small freshwater pool. 

SOI Team Member Jennifer and Abraham chasing waterfalls at Ramah Bay.

 

As we headed from ship to shore on Zodiacs the spirits of the Torngats welcomed us again. The sun broke through the clouds just in time for a quintessential morning of SOI activities. We had a geology “Ramah Rock Walk” exploration, watercolour painting session, and for those wanting to document their reflections, journaling by a waterfall. Some filled their reusable water bottles with fresh spring water while others played in the small waterfall. It was also our first opportunity during the expedition to do some kayaking and/or paddleboarding; a first time for many of us. We put on our wetsuits, listened intently at the safety briefing, then either paddled in a kayak or stood up on a paddleboard! It was so much fun! Louise and Theo, both from Monaco, had an extra fun first-time kayaking experience when their kayak tipped in the water. We are sure The Torngat spirits were happy seeing us kayaking and in particular, the Inuit Youth. 

“I just crossed off something on my bucket list! Never thought I would kayak in the Torngat Mountains!”
–  Andrew, Youth Participant 

To end our magical morning in Ramah Bay, SOI Team Member Tim treated us to a mini-concert on the cliff by the waterfalls. What an incredible natural amphitheatre.

SOI Team Member singer/songwriter Tim performs a mini-concert cliffside at Ramah Bay.

Just as we headed back to the ship, about 200 metres away, the fog started to settle again at Ramah Bay. Every day it is evident that there is a connection between the spirits and the land; it’s been amazing to witness. 

After lunch, we had some QST – Quiet Ship Time – often used to reflect, journal, self-care, meditate, and do some solo art time. Mid-afternoon SOI Team Member Emma hosted “Permafrost Party” Part Two, where we used the models we had put in the freezer the other day. We learned how to identify permafrost when on land and what the implications may have in our own communities. 

Early in the evening we anchored at Base Camp and said farewell to our SOI Team Member Maria. We are so grateful to her for not just being one of our bear guards, but most importantly for the stories and knowledge she shared with us. 

While at Base Camp, we were invited to attend and participate in an Inuit Games demo. Some of us including our Team Leaders showed our strength in a friendly competition of leg wrestle, musk-ox push (opponents on all fours, shoulder to shoulder trying to push each other over the line) or seal crawl. We cheered each other on and were definitely surprised by the strength of some of our expedition mates.

A surprise drum performance for us after the Inuit Games demo at Base Camp.

While the Inuit games demo was taking place in the Base Camp lounge, a small group of us hiked along the mountain ridge to take in the amazing views of Base Camp. Before we headed back to the ship, we were treated to a performance by drum dancers. We met these dancers a few days ago when we were in Hebron so it was nice to see them again. 

As night fell and with just a few days left on our route, Expedition Team Leader Geoff encouraged us to take time to reflect on the activities we’ve experienced connecting to the land and connecting to each other. We set sail from Base Camp and began the journey south. 

View the full gallery here.